The weather is gorgeous, but all of these warm sunny days are not helping drought conditions.

The cover story in the Tuesday, Oct. 2’s Richmond Times-Dispatch highlights the issues and some of the restrictions. We thought it would be a good time for the gardening blog to offer:

TIPS FOR THE BEST WATERING TECHNIQUES

When you are watering, focus on trees and shrubs – especially newly planted ones. Newly planted trees and shrubs are vulnerable to extremes in heat and moisture and can be expensive to replace if roots are damaged by drought.

It’s good to water established lawns and shrubs about one inch per week, but during this critical time you can cut that to one quarter of an inch per week. (Use a rain gauge to track how much water you are using.) For newly established plants, water when the root systems are dry. The best way to tell is to put your finger in the soil about two to three inches deep around the young roots – if the ground feels dry, it is time to water. Be sure to also look around your yard for signs of stress. If you see wilted leaves or leaves turning yellow, pay attention to these plants. Azaleas, which are shallow-rooted plants, show signs of stress quickly and are a great “indicator” plant.

It is better to water deeply and less frequently. For instance watering once a week, allowing water to drip slowly into the root systems for three to four hours, is more helpful than frequent shallow waterings. Watering deeply helps establish deeper root systems. Be sure to monitor weekly.

The best time to water is early in the morning just before dawn. It’s important to get the soil thoroughly wet. The morning sun will dry off the foliage, which lessens conditions for fungal diseases. Watering in the morning is also good because evaporation loss is minimal – the humidity is higher and the winds are calmer.

The best way to water is to allow water to drip through the hose right into the root system. Gushing water is not good because it washes the soil away and the water often runs into other areas instead of soaking in around the plant’s roots. One easy tip is to build a dam of soil around the base of the newly established plant. The dam holds the water in around the plant, allowing it to seep into the root system.

Building a dam around a plant can help with watering.

Another option is to use self-watering bags. These are special bags with a small hole that are placed on the ground and are strapped to the trunk. When the bag is filled up with water, the water will slowly drip out and directly on to the root system. Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden uses these bags extensively to conserve water and they are available commercially. The bags are relatively inexpensive (especially when you consider what it costs to replace a tree), but if you are looking for a home-spun alternative, simply take a five gallon bucket, poke a small hole in the bottom and place next to the plant. This is not as visually appealing, but it is effective! In either case, check water penetration by digging carefully to see if water has reached to the root zone.

A “tree bag” can provide you with good, slow watering.

The current drought conditions are a good wake-up call for us all to reassess how we garden and how we use water. For instance, as you are planning next year’s garden, think of ways to incorporate drought-tolerant plants. Study what other gardeners in drier climates do. And remember, less time spent watering means more time for you to enjoy your garden!

Tom Brinda is assistant director of horticulture and education at Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden.

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